Braze ons are all those little things that make a bike more or less useful. Think cantilever brake bosses and rack mounts and pump pegs and water bottle bosses.

Braze ons are priced individually here. But I have a minimum base rate, so this isn’t the place to cheap out. Let’s modify your existing frame and fork and make it exactly what you want. Let’s not regret saving $25 buck by skipping a braze on and having your rack or fenders be a pain to mount, or worse ugly and clunkily mounted.

Cantilever/V-Brake bosses $80-$250

For example: one pair of cantilever bosses added to a bare metal fork that doesn’t have old ones $80

Or, on an existing fork: to burn the paint off an old fork and remove your old canti bosses, file and sand and clean up the old mess and braze a new set of bosses on is $125. To do that to the fork and the frame is $250. So while we’re at it we might as well add that pump peg or set of mid fork rack mounts you were debating about.

Most other small braze ons are going to work the same way. $25 to add to a bare metal frame, and probably $50 if I have to remove paint and old braze ons and clean it all up in order to add the new ones.

If you want to save some money and don’t mind getting your hands dirty, I’m happy to go over what you can do yourself to remove paint. (Please don’t try and remove your old braze ons, tubes are thin and it’s more likely you’ll destroy your frame!)

You can’t really align a fully welded frame, I know a lot of people do, but you can mangle and fatigue it and bend and stress it, but not really fix alignment issues without doing more harm than good, sorry.

But I like respacing vintage high end steel bikes to modern rear spacings so you can run more practical parts. I love vintage race bikes but hate 5 speed freewheels and 700x23 max tire size.

I can respace and align the rear triangle from that old vintage 120mm, or 126mm spacing to 130mm for modern road cassette hubs. This lets you use high quality modern 8, 9, or 10 speed cassettes on your vintage bike.

And I can add clearance for smaller wheel sizes to accommodate fatter tires. I love 650B conversions! Yes a 650bx38 wheel/tire will fit in many vintage road frames!

This involves mounting your frame on an alignment table. Carefully measuring the center of the frame and Cold Setting the stays a little wider on each side of the bike. Keeping them centered, then again Cold Setting the dropouts with dropout alignment tools to make sure they’re perfectly parallel to each other so they don’t add any uneven clamping pressure to the hub bearings.

Slightly tweaked forks can also be aligned by clamping the forks steer tube in an alignment jig, carefully measuring the fork and Cold Setting it back into alignment and using the drop out alignment tools on the fork dropouts to make sure they’re perfectly parallel too. And I do mean slightly tweaked.

Frame, with no parts installed at all, aligned or respaced and aligned $100-150.

The price goes up depending on how much of the bike needs to be disassembled and reassembled in order to get it on the alignment table.

A la cart frame prep:

Reaming and facing head tube $100

Facing and chasing the bottom bracket shell $100

Reaming the seat tube to 27.2 $50

Reaming the seat tube to any other size $75

Cleaning powder coating out of dropouts or canti bosses $50

Tapping rack or water bottle bosses $25 for the first boss $15 per additional boss.

Facing/Cutting crown race $50

*Price triples if it’s a stainless-steel fork crown

Chasing fork threads $35

Cutting additional fork threads $35 + $25 per inch

Full frame prep combo package $275

*A full frame prep comes free with every custom frame.

*Full frame prep is often needed for bikes with thick fresh powder coating. Full bike’s Frame Prep includes running cutting tools, reaming, facing and chasing all the threads and press fit surfaces to make sure they’re correct and free of paint and debris for parts installation and proper bearing alignment.

Ultra sleek, super lightweight 1/4 inch outside diameter .028 wall 4130 Chromoly racks and or Decaleurs to fit your every desire and flawlessly fit your bike. That means they aren’t adjustable with lots of big heavy brackets and clunky hardware.

I use your frame/fork as the jig to make racks that fit perfectly. they will sit as low to the fender as possible. Be as light and elegant as possible. Do what they are intended for 10x better than the best racks on the market and weigh less and fit better and look 10x better while doing it. And probably not fit anything else.

This also means I need to have at least the fork in my shop to build a front rack. Plan accordingly.

Custom one of kind handlebar bag rack or Decaleure starts at $450! (Yes, that’s a lot, but it’s also a lot of work making something custom that also works.) I think Rene Herse makes the best Decaleurs that have probably ever existed. If one of those fits your bike, I say go for it! I’m happy to order you one… but if there’s no way to make one work, I’m here for you.

Raw steel/unpainted.

Base price is $450

Matching detachable lowriders in 3/8 tubing add $650

Full size rear racks, porter front racks and cargo racks start at $600 and go up based on design and complexity.

While I love French Flip J bend Rando blades and vintage lugged crowns and 1” threaded steer tubes, I’ll make just about any kind of steel fork. Track, road, touring, gravel. Threaded or threadless, for whatever brakes and tire clearances your heart desires. Well as long as it’s safe and sound, doesn’t look like it belongs on a dump truck.

Forks are priced all over the place and the amount or extra work that goes into them depending on design can change the price dramatically.

The base price is for a threadless road or track fork with a lugged fork crown for side pull caliper brake with or without fender eyes. Made with all Columbus tubes. It all goes up from there with complexness and added braze ons or details.

Base price is $450

Price goes up from there as the design gets more complex with brake, rack, and wiring mounts.

Handmade the old fashion way… the dumbest hardest way possible. No big machines, no factory like repetitions. Just wooden tube blocks, hack saws, hand files, and an old school oxy acetylene torch with bronze and silver to flow into hot steel and bond the joints and braze ons. Like a Jewlery maker making gold settings for diamonds. Only you’re the jewel and the bike is the Gold.

Or something like that,,,

No two bikes are the same because there is no factory, no machines mitering every tube to the exact same angle the exact same length. No machine welds joining every tube to every other tube exactly the same.

Every frame is hand made one at a time to my mood, my taste, my experience. There are no instructions, no foremen or managers. I’m the only person in the shop, and I’m an artist not a factory worker. And I don’t care about time or cost or factory standards or ideals. I care about beauty and functionality and performance and quality. I make functional art, not just bicycles.

It’s the slowest hardest dumbest way to try and make a living, but it’s the only thing I want to do, and the only way I want to do it.

All this being said, I am currently not offering custom frames! LOL! I know, seems weird for a frame builder to do everything but custom frames. But I’m starting over. With new tools, in a new space and being a new me, after almost 5 years off. I’m going to make myself a frame or two first and feel it out. Try to get comfortable in my own skin again as it were. Then we’ll see if there’s still anyone that want’s what I want to build.

When I’m really good and ready and happy with the bikes, the tools, the process and I can do exactly what I want the way I want, and get paint and chrome done the way I want. Then I’ll offer frames again. And they won’t be cheap.

Something I realized at Norther, I can’t build custom stuff by hand for the price of small batch frames made over Sea’s, or by guys that build everything exactly the same way with big machines doing the cutting and the welding practically for them. I’m not even going to try. If that means my bikes are the most expensive ones out there and no one can afford them, so be it. I’ll just ride them myself or hang them on the wall, and stare at them.

*And I do mean framesets, frame and fork! I don’t make frames designed for or around plastic forks. Lots of really great builders make really beautiful high quality moder-ish frames for Carbon forks. And that's great if it's what you're into. Please buy a frame from one of them!

I mostly prefer doing frame building in the frame building shop. But, if it’s an emergency, helpful or just plain interesting or slow I can do mechanical work too.

Such as:

Installing new tube and tire $25

Removing and reinstalling cranks and bottom bracket, such as needed to align a frame $50

Removing and reinstalling a fork, such as needed to align the fork $50-$100

Custom metal fender installation $250

Rinko $100

Wiring/installing a dynamo light $60

Installing a new headset $60-$100

Tuning and adjusting a derailleur $35-$50

Installing a new Cable & Housing $35-$50

Newbaum’s cloth tape + 6 coats of amber Shellack and twine $125

Full custom mechanical build (not including fenders/dynamo lights $500

Full overhauls $600

Tune ups $100-$250

Generally solving problems, and saving frames no one else can figure out $100 per hour